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When assembling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. But, nestled near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which was a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary honour.